One of the greatest military operations in the history of India, would be the capture of Sinhagad . It is a story of courage, heroism, adventure. When you walk around Pune , and the surrounding areas, you feel the valor of the Marathas at every step. Pune itself home of the Peshwas, Raigad where Shivaji was coronated, Purandhar, Pratapgarh , all those names resonate with the glory of one of India’s greatest sons. A man who gave sleepless nights to Aurangzeb, yet he respected Hindus and Muslims equally.
But it is Sinhagad , which takes your breath away, with it’s sheer grandeur, originally called as Kondhana, around 25 km northwest of Pune, located at an altitude of around 4400 m above sea level. The fort is located in the Bhuleswar range of the eastern Sahayadris. It is connected to Purandar on the east and west by very high ridges, and on the north and south, there is a huge rugged mountain with a sheer vertical drop. The fort is located on the mountain, and it has a strong wall, flanked by towers. The only entrance to the fort is by the gates.
History
The fort was originally under the control of the Mahadev Kolis, ruled by their chieftain Nagnath Nayak. In 1360 AD, Muhammad Bin Tuqhlaq, the Delhi Sultan, invaded the South. He had shifted the capital to Devagiri( Daulatabad) to escape the Mongol invasions from the North. When he tried to capture Kondana, however he had to face stiff resistance, from the Kolis, for one year. However the Sultan had to abandon the court due to lack of supplies, and the Kolis once again recaptured the fort, after the Sultan left for Delhi.
The fort was held by Mahadev Koli, till the Nizam Shahis of Ahmednagar, captured it, and built a military base in 1647. Shivaji was forced to surrender this fort to Raja Jai Singh, by the Treaty of Purandar , and the fort passed into the hands of the Mughals. Raja Jai Singh appointed Udai Bhan to look after the fort, and it had a huge garrison of Mughal, Rajput and Pathan soldiers.
Jijabai, Shivaji’s mother, was not able to digest the loss of this fort, Maharashtra’s pride. She demanded the fort as a gift to her. Shivaji was not very enthusiastic, because of the hazards in accessing the fort, as well as the fact that Udai Bhan was an able commander himself.
But he gave in to his mother’s request, and he called his childhood friend, and one of his ablest men, Tanaji Malusare a giant of a man, and a fiercely loyal general, for the mission. Tanaji actually had come to Shivaji Maharaj to invite him for his son’s wedding. Shivaji Maharaj who till then was planning to capture Kondana, decided to defer it till the wedding was over.
“As long as Tanaji is alive, Shivaji will not need to go to Kondana, we shall take the fort” he promised and put the mariage off.
But the mission was hazardous in the extreme, the cliffs on which this fort is located, are absolutely steep, and an attack in dark is really dangerous. The doors and gates were heavily guarded, and the fort itself had a strong garrison. And Udai Bhan was a man of no mean abilities, a true Rajput himself. Tanaji did a survey of the area, and found that the only way to get into the fort, was from the South side, as it was the least guarded.
The southern flank was on the top of a huge cliff, and it was assumed that no one could really scale it. Once he was sure of his strategy, he gathered 1000 Malvis( Maratha soldiers) and attacked in the darkness of night. The point of access choosen was the South Western gorge, which had the least security. Once, Tanaji and his men broke into the fort, the doors would be thrown open, following which another contigent of Maratha soldiers would attack.
It’s believed that Tanaji used his pet ghorpad( Monitory lizard) by typing a rope around it’s waist, and made it to climb up the cliff, and get a foothold. However this seems more a folk tale, and not a true account. The more accepted historical version, is that the Marathas clambered up the cliff, at a 90 degree ascent, securing with ropes in the darkness of the night, and let the ropes down for others.
As they entered the fort, a commotion caused the garrison to wake up. Though the Marathas were outnumbered by the 1000 strong garrison consisting of Arabs, Afghans, Rajputs and Pathans , they fought like cornered tigers. Tanaji, leading the fray like a man possesed, slaughtering every one who came in his way.
As the garrison soldiers fled before Tanaji’s furious onslaught, Udai Bhan himself entered the fray, and a fierce duel broke out between the two great warriors. Though Tanaji’s shield broke, during the duel, he continued fighting, with a cloth like shield wrapped around his head. However the injured Tanaji was killed by Udai Bhan, who himself fell perished from his injuries. The two great warriors had fought each other to death, with neither yielding till the end.
Just when it seemed all was lost, Tanaji’s brother Suryaji appeared with the Maval reserves,who however began to panic on seeing Tanaji dead, and started to retreat. However Suryaji, blocked the exit, and made it clear to the Mavals, it was either victory or death. The cornered Mavals shouting “Har Har Mahadev” fell upon the garrison with a fierce onslaught. So furious was the assault, that many of the defending soldiers, tried to save themselves by jumping over the walls, and fell to their death on the rocks.
When Shivaji, came to the fort, he refused to celebrate the capture, seeing his closest friend, and ablest general, lying dead. He broke down saying “Gad Aala, Pan Sinha Gela” , meaning “I have won the Fort, but lost the lion”.
Lokamanya Tilak stayed here for some time at the bungalow , as well as Gandhiji who is said to have asked water from the Devtak tank at the back of Tanaji’s memorial , whenever he was in Pune. There is also a temple dedicated to Kondaneshwar, dating to Yadava period. To the left is another old temple dedicated to Amruteswar.
The Kalyan Gate is one entrance from the West side, with sculptures of elephants, while there is another memorial dedicated to Udayban Rathore, who fell fighting to defend the fort. From this memorial, you can descend to the fort walls, where you get a good view of the Purandar, Rajgarh and Torna forts. There is another memorial for Chattrapathi Rajaram who passed away here on March 2, 1700, built in Rajasthani style architecture.
The fort needs to be visited for the sheer majestic grandeur of the Sahayadri ranges around it. Stand on the walls and as you recall, the Maratha soldiers climbing in the pitch darkness of the night, over the cliffs, a chill runs up your spine.
Probably this could be the reason, that NDA cadets, take their most grueling hike ,from Khadakavalsa to Sinhagad fort. Every cadet who passes out from the NDA, proudly recalls, his climb to Sinhagad. It is fitting that the spirit of a man who carried out one of the most brilliant and daring military operation, and an emperor, who was acknowledged as a military genius, should inspire our brave men, who guard our borders day in and day out.