Srimukhalingam
One of the well known Shiva temples in Andhra Pradesh is that of Srimukhalingam, in Srikakulam district.
Mukhalingam located in the Jalumuru mandal of Srikakulam district, was the erstwhile capital of the Eastern Ganga dynasty for close to 6 centuries. However with Anantavarma Chodaganga Deva shifting the capital to Cuttack in 1135, the place lost it's prominence. It was one of the main centers of Shaivism, more specifically of the Pasupati Shaiva sect. You can find the icon of Lakulisa, the founder of the sect, who is also believed to be one of Shiva's avatars too.
The Pasupati Shaiva sect was widespread in Gujarat, Rajasthan, from where it spread to Bengal, Odisha, and it's believed to have come to Mukhalingam around the 8th century. The Shaiva temples here date between 9th-11th centuries.
Of the Shaiva temples in Mukhalingam, the 3 most famous ones are Srimukhalingam, Bhimeswara Swamy and Someswara Swamy. Built in typical Kalinga style, the temples are noted for their rich sculpture.
The village gets it's name from the fact that Shiva's face appears on the Linga( Mukhalinga), and it's believed that a darshan of this Lingam, is as holy as a dip in the Ganga at Kashi. Also devotees here visit Anjaneya Temple after visiting the Lingam. Srimukhalingam is basically a temple complex, with the 3 main temples located in a triangular layout. The Madhukeshwara Temple is the main one, followed by the Bhimeswara and Someswara Temple at the other 2 points. With green paddy fields around it is very picturesque.
The deity of Srimukhalinga is located in the Someswara Temple. The 3 temples are noted for some excellent scultpure and reliefs.
As per the Sthala Purana, there was a grand Vaishnava Yagna in the Himalayas once. The Gandharvas under Chitragriva too attended it, however attracted by the beauty of the Sabarakantha ladies, they tried to molest them. Angered at their conduct Maharshi Vamadeva cursed the Gandharvas to be re born as Sabaras. Chitragreeva was born as a Sabara chieftain, his second wife Chitkala was a devout Shaivaite. However his jealous first wife Chitti, caused Chitkala to be banished.
Chitragreeva asked Chitkala to collect flowers from 2 branches of the Madhuka tree, and make a living with it. Obeying his orders, she daily collected the flowers. However due to her devotion to Shiva,those flowers turned into golden flowers, which she would sell. When Chitti again began to be jealous of Chitkala's prosperity, Chitragreeva began to cut down the Madhuka tree, and Shiva appeared in the Rudra form, and soon freed the Gandharvas from their curse. Hence he is called as Madhukeshwara.
The main Lingam in Srimukhalingam is carved out of the logs of the Madhuka tree. It is believed that Shiva's face is visible on the logs, which also gives this place it's name. This is the reason why Madhuka tree is very holy to the tribal communities too.
The Bhimeshwara Temple is mostly in ruins, and has Dakshinamurthy with 4 faces, along with Kumaraswamy, Brahma, Ganapati. The Someswara Temple contains only the Garba Gudi( Sanctum Sanctorum), with a tall Shikaram over it.
Another feature of Srimukhalingam is that the sculptures are all carved out of a single stone. It is considered one of the Panchayata Kshetrams. The temple complex also has the Ashta Ganapathis. It's believed they were installed by Maharshi Veda Vyasa.
For quite some time, the Srimukhalingam Temple complex was in neglect, before the Parlakimidi Maharaja of the Gajapati dynasty renovated them 200 years back. From then on,the Parlakimidi Royal family has been taking care of the temple well. The family also oversees the Mahashivratri celebrations at Srimukhalingam. Celebrated for 9 dayes here, many devotees not just from Andhra,but also neighbouring Odisha visit this temple during that time.
Srimukhalingam is reachable from the district HQ of Srikakulam, and Vishakapatnam is the nearest airport. Do visit this wonderful temple for it's architecture,the sculptures ,the picturesque surroundings,the Nagavali river nearby and the unique Lingam made out of wood.
